Madonna dell'Orto
This lovely Gothic church was founded in the mid 14th Century and was dedicated
to St Christopher, patron saint of travellers, to protect the boatmen who ferried
passengers to the island in the northern lagoon. The dedication was changed and
the church reconstructed in the early 15th Century, following the discovery, in a
nearby vegetable garden (orto), of a statue of the Virgin Mary said to have
miraculous powers. However, a 15th Century statue of St Christopher, newly
restored, still stands above the portal.
The interior, faced almost entirely in brick, is large, light and uncluttered.
The greatest treasures are the works of art by Tintoretto, who was a parishoner
of the church. His tomb, which is marked with a plaque, lies in the chapel to the
right of the chancel. The most dramatic of his works are the towering paintings in the chancel. On the
right wall is the 'Last Judgment'. In the painting 'The Adoration of the Golden
Calf', on the left wall, the figure carrying the calf, fourth from the left, is
said to depict Tintoretto himself.
Inside the chapel of San Mauro you can see the statue of the Madonna which
inspired the reconstruction of the church. To the right of the entrance is Cima
da Conegliano's magnificent painting, 'St John the Baptist and Other Saints'. The
vacant space opposite belongs to Giovanni Bellini's 'Madonna with Child' which
was stolen recently.
Campo dei Mori
According to popular tradition, the 'Mori' were the three Mastelli
brothers who came from the Morea, the Peleponnese. The brothers, who were silk
merchants by trade, took refuge in Venice in 1112 and built the Palazzo Mastelli,
recognisable by its camel bas relief, which once backed onto the square. Their
weathered stone figures can be seen embedded in the wall of the campo on its
eastern side. The corner figure with the makeshift rusty metal nose is 'Signor
Antonio Rioba' who, like the Roman Pasquino, was the focus of malicious fun and
satire. A fourth oriental merchant wearing a large turban faces the Rio della
Sensa on the facade of Tintoretto's house.
Fondamenta della Sensa
When the marshy lands of Cannaregio were drained in the Middle Ages, three long,
straight canals were created running parallel to each other. The middle of these
is the Rio della Sensa, which stretches from the Sacca di Sant'Alvise at its
western end to the Canal della Misericordia in the east. The Fondamenta cuts
through a quiet quarter of Cannaregio, where daily life goes on undisturbed by
tourism. With its small grocery shops and simple local taverns, the neighbourhood
feels removed from San Marco.
This is one of the poorer areas of the
city, though the buildings are interspersed with fine, although slightly
neglected, palaces that belonged to wealthy Venetians. Abbot Onorio Arrigoni
lived at No.3336 with his collection of antiques, and Palazzo Michiel, No. 3218,
is an early Renaissance Palace which became the French Embassy.
San Marziale
Is currently a ruined mediaeval church.
Fondamenta Nuove
The Fondamenta Nuove or New Quays are actually over 400 years old. This chain of
waterside streets borders the northern lagoon for over half a mile from the
solitary Sacca della Misericordia to the Rio di Santa Giustina in Castello on the
eastern side.
Before the construction of the quays in the 1580s, this was a desirable
residential area where the air was said to be healthy and the houses had gardens
sloping down to the lagoon. One of the residents was Titian, who lived from 1531
to 1576 in a now demolished house at Calle Larga dei Botteri.
The quaysides provide splendid views of the northern lagoon and on clear days,
the Dolomites. The island most visible from the quays is San Michele in Isola,
its stately cypress trees rising high above the cemetery walls.
Oratorio dei Crociferi
Founded in the 13th Century as a hospital for returning Crusaders, the Oratorio
dei Crociferi (built for the Order of the Bearers of the Cross) was turned into a
charitable institution for old people in the 15th Century.
Between 1583 and 1591 the artist Palma il Giovane, commissioned by the Crociferi,
decorated the chapel with a glowing cycle of paintings depicting the crucial
events in the history of this religious order.
The inscriptions on the walls of some of the surrounding houses in the square are
those of art and crafts guilds, such as silk weavers and tailors, whose works
formerly occupied the buildings.
Santa Maria Assunta
This 12th Century church belonged to the Order of the Crociferi. Titian's
'Martyrdom of St Lawrence', above the first altar on the left has been described
as "the first successful nocturne in the history of art".
Santa Maria dei Miracoli
An exquisite masterpiece of the early Renaissance, the Miracoli is the favourite
church of many Venetians and the one where they like to get married. Tucked away
in a maze of alleys and waterways in eastern Cannaregio. It is small and somewhat
elusive. Often likened to a jewel box, the facade is decorated with various
shades of marble, with fine bas reliefs and sculptures. It was built in 1481 to
1489 by the architect Pietro Lombardo and his sons to enshrine 'The Virgin and
Child' a painting believed to have miraculous powers. The picture, painted by
Nicolo di Pietro in 1408, can be seen above the altar.
The interior of the church which is best visited when pale shafts of sunlight
stream in through the windows, is embellished by pink, white and grey marble and
crowned by a barrel vaulted ceiling which has 50 portraits of the saints and
prophets. The balustrade, between the nave and the chancel, is decorated by
Tullio Lombardo's carved figures of St Francis, Archangel Gabriel, the Virgin and
St Clare. The screen around the high altar and the medallions of the Evangelists
in the cupola spandrels are also by Lombardo. Above the main door, the choir
gallery was used by the nuns from the neighbouring convent, who entered the
church through an overhead gallery.
San Giovanni Crisostomo
This pretty little terracotta coloured church lies in a bustling quarter close to
the Rialto. Built between 1479 and 1504, the church was the work of Mauro
Coducci. The interior, which is built on a Greek cross plan, is dark and
intimate. Above the first altar on the right is Giovanni Bellini's 'St Jerome
with Saints Christopher & Augustine'. Influenced by Giorgione, this was probably
the last work done by Bellini, executed in his 80s. Sebastiano del Piombi's 'St
John Chrysostum and Six Saints', which hangs over the high altar, was also
influenced by Giorgione and some believe that he actually painted the figures of
St John the Baptist and St Liberal.
Santi Apostoli
The Campo Santi Apostoli is a busy crossroads for pedestrians en route to the
Rialto. Its church is unremarkable architecturally and was executed by Mauro
Coducci, who produced this enchanting church. The corner chapel within, located
on the right of the nave, contains the tomb of Marco Corner probably by Tullio
Lombardo, and an inscription to Corner's daughter, Caterina Cornaro, Queen of
Cyprus who was buried here before she was moved to the church of San
Salvatore.
Palazzo Labia
The Labias are a wealthy family of merchants from Catalonia who have bought their
way into the Venetian 'nobility' in 1646. They have begun to layout their palazzo
overlooking the Canal di Cannaregio.
Palazzo Contarini
In 1420 the wealthy patrician, Marino Contarini, commissioned the building of
what he was determined would be the most magnificent palace in the city. The
decoration and the intricate carving were executed by a team of Venetian and
Lombard craftsmen, and he had the facade adorned in ultramarine, gold leaf and
vermilion. The Ca D'Oro as it became known is the finest example of Venetian
gothic architecture in the city. The facade with its finely carved ogee windows,
oriental pinnacles and exotic marble tracery, has an unmistakable flavour of the
East. The open stairway and the wellhead in the courtyard were executed by
Bartolomeo Bon.
The first floor's pride of place is given over to Andrea Mantegna's 'St
Sebastian' (1506), the artist's last painting. The portego, or gallery, opening
on to the Grand Canal is a showroom of sculpture. Among the finest pieces are
bronze reliefs by the Paduan sculptor, Il Riccio(1470 to 1532), Tullio Lombardo's
marble 'Double Portrait' (1493) and Sansovino's 'Madonna and Child' (1530). Rooms
to the right of the portego have some fine Renaissance bronzes and among the
paintings, an 'Annunciation' and 'Death of the Virgin' both executed in 1504 by
Vittore Carpaccio and assistants. A room to the left of the portego is devoted to
Non-Venetian painting and includes Luca Signorelli's 'Flagellation' (1480).
San Giobbe
The church of San Giobbe stands in a remote campo full of cats. The early Gothic
structure of the church was modified in the 1470s by Pietro Lombardo who added
Renaissance elements such as the figures of saints over the portal. The Martini
Chapel, second on the left, is decorated with Della Robbia style glazed
terracotta. The altar pieces are by Giovanni Bellini and Vittore Carpaccio.
The Ghetto
In 1516 the Council of Ten decreed that all Jews in Venice were to be confined to
an islet of Cannaregio. The quarter was cut off by wide canals and the two water
gates were manned by Christian guards. The area was named the Ghetto, after a
foundry, geto in the Venetian dialect, which formerly occupied the site. The name
was subsequently ascribed to all Jewish settlements throughout the World. by day
Jews were allowed out of the ghetto, but had to wear identifying badges and caps.
The only occupations they could pursue were trading in textiles, money lending
and medicine.
The rising numbers of Jews forced the Ghetto to expand. Buildings rose upwards
into the so called 'skyscrapers' of Venice and spread into the Ghetto Vechio in
1541 and the neighbouring Ghetto Novissimo in 1633. By the mid 17th Century the
Jewish population numbered over 5000. This quarter has a distinctive feel to it
with kosher food shops and two synagogues (one German and one Spanish/Levant).
eturn to Street Plan of Venice...